Flüge nach Málaga

OCTOBER 2023

Latin American art, Basque food and beautiful hiking trails. We’ve picked out five unique things to do if you want to experience the best of Marbella.

Unique art museum

Ralli Museum

The Ralli Museum is a must for art lovers. The museum is filled with surreal and colorful works, including paintings and sculptures from Spanish and South American artists. Just a short hop on the bus from the Marbella town center and a stone’s throw from the beach, this hidden art gem is a treat for the whole family—and best of all, it’s free!

Beach close to greenery

Playa de Artola

Marbella’s beaches host a lot of lively clubs, but if you’re looking for a smaller and quieter beach to spend the day on, Playa de Artola is a great option. It’s the only beach in Marbella that isn’t located next to the vibrant city but surrounded by beautiful sand dunes. All this adds to Playa de Artola’s popularity, so be sure to arrive in time to bag yourself a spot.

Basque dining experience

La Sidreria Usategui

La Sidreria Usategui is one of many Basque restaurants in Marbella—and probably the most authentic of them all. Here they brew their own cider, served in giant glasses from giant barrels housed inside the restaurant. The food is created with love and grilled to perfection, not least the meat dishes that the restaurant has become famous for. However, it can be a little difficult to find: La Sidreria Usategui is hidden in an ordinary residential building in a narrow alley off Marbella’s main tourist drag.

Walking among greenery

Sierra Blanca

Marbella is perfect for hike lovers. Sierra Blanca is one of many hiking trails in Marbella and is beautifully situated next to pine forests and other greenery. The area is particularly eye-catching in the fall and spring—and if you visit Sierra Blanca the day after rain, there’s a chance you’ll see a waterfall in the forest.

Organic food market

Mercado Ecológico de Nueva Andalucía

If you happen to be in Marbella on the third Saturday of the month then the Mercado Ecológico de Nueva Andalucía, next to the Rio Guadaliza, is not to be missed. This market is a dream come true if you’re looking for organic food at a great price. Here, local farmers gather to sell the week’s harvest—and once you’re done shopping, you can finish off with a cool afternoon swim on the beach, just a stone’s throw away.

SEPTEMBER 2023

Explore the renovated Caminito del Rey—a nearly five-mile hiking trail through dramatic rock formations in Andalusia, southern Spain. After extensive improvements, the trail is now safer and open to all adventure enthusiasts. A perfect day trip from Malaga and the Costa del Sol, where you can enjoy spectacular views and geological wonders at high altitudes.

There are places that, over time, develop a life of their own. The mythology they give birth to grows, and just being able to say “I’ve been there” can be enough to pique people’s interest. At over 100 years old, the Caminito del Reyhiking trail that runs through the Desfiladero de los Gaitanes ravine in southern Spain is one such place.

With narrow platforms in catastrophically poor condition, having neither handrails nor fences and being at a high altitude, it has long been known as “the most dangerous hiking trail in the world”.

However, following a complete renovation of the 7.7 kilometre long route, this name could now be changed to “the most dangerous, but safe hiking trail in the world”.

Just above the half-crumbled old road now hang several kilometres of modern and easily accessible platforms made from steel and wood. Thanks to these platforms, the unique natural environment of the Caminito del Reycan be easily enjoyed by everyone, not just adrenaline junkies looking for adventure. What the renovation and improved level of safety have not changed is the incredible feeling of hiking at an altitude of more than 100 metres above a steep ravine, surrounded by a dramatic mountain landscape.

In addition, the fact that the trail is located less than an hour away from the beaches of Malaga makes it a perfect excursion destination during any trip to the Costa del Sol.

Despite its proximity to the coast, the mountainous interior feels like a completely different world. After passing through row upon row of orange groves, the road starts to climb and the mountains draw ever more into view. The landscape becomes barren and the road increasingly winding before it suddenly opens up on a lush pine forest running along Embalse Conde de Guadalhorce, a large artificial lake that marks the starting point of Caminito del Rey.

At the El Miradorrestaurant, which overlooks the lake, visitors take the opportunity to fuel up on freshly-squeezed orange juice from the groves they passed on the way before emarking on their hike. The air feels incredibly fresh and pure, which is confirmed by the area being designated as one of the best places in Europe for making looking at the stars.

If at all possible, the sky seems to be more blue than down by the coast. However, the Caminito del Reybegins in almost total darkness thanks to a 150 metre-long tunnel that cuts straight through the mountain. Upon exiting the tunnel, walkers are greeted by huge rock walls with geological formations and caves that were used as homes by farmers well into the 20th Century.

This is just the beginning of the natural spectacle that hides behind the control station where helmets are issued. After a short walk, it is not long before the solid ground under your feet turns into platforms that cling high along the walls of the steep ravine.

The enormous proportions of the mountain make the platforms look like they are built of matchsticks, winding up and down like an infinite balcony along the cliff face.

The Guadalhorceriver, which has slowly but surely carved the ravine from the mountain, flows far below. At the narrowest point of the ravine, the river disappears from sight, the only indication of its existance being the constant roar of the water. In other places, where the river is wider, the waters illuminate the bottom of the ravine, alternating between emerald green and brown.

Surrounded by this fascinating landscape, it’s easy to forget where you really are, namely a narrow platform suspended from a mountain and walking on wooden planks that are only 5 centimetres thick. But the even surface and solid fence mean that even a novice adventurer can fully enjoy this landscape of vertical drops and the strange limestone formations - despite being in surroundings that demand respect.

The Caminito del Rey is actually several hiking trails in one. After the dizzying start in the ravine, the trail transitions to a wide climb in the shadow of fragrant pine trees through the large Valle del Hoyovalley. The path is dusty and the dry stones crunch under your feet. The Andalusian sun is warming and it is difficult to imagine that this arid landscape was once at the very bottom of the sea. The rocks are awash with fossils, including from whales, which still turn up on a regular basis.

Water was the main reason why Caminito del Reywas built between 1901 and 1905. In the late 19th Century, engineer Rafael Benjumea had the idea of using the natural altitude differences of the area to fuel a hydropower plant. Through a canal and series of aqueducts, water was channelled from the artificial lakes located on either side of the ravine to the power station in El Chorro, where the rock becomes porous.

Water was released into the turbines at a rate of 10,000 liters per second, allowing people in Malaga to enjoy the warm nights in the light electric street lamps.

In 1921, King Alfonso XIII paid a visit, and since then the trail has been called Caminito del Rey (“the king’s little road”).

The decision to build the canal here meant that it became a part of the most beautiful landscape of southern Spain. But it was not the idea of enabling people to enjoy the natural beauty of the area that was the reason for creating the trail, it was created for a much more practical purpose: workers needed to be able to access the site in order to build the canal, maintain it and manage the water flow.

“It was dangerous, but it’s an incredibly beautiful location and geologically very interesting.”

The construction process was difficult and dangerous. There are many different versions of the tale of who built the Caminito del Rey. In fact, it is often claimed that prisoners awaiting execution built the most dangerous sections.

“But the truth is that the Caminito del Rey was built by sailors from the coast around Malaga. They were considered to be best suited to the task as they were used to climbing high masts and were masters of tying knots – a very practical skill to have when you’re being suspended from the side of a mountain,” says one of the guides stationed along the route.

Traces of the hazardous work can still be seen in the form of rusty metal structures and hooks that protrude from the rock.

“Safety wasn’t thought about in the terms then as it is now,” continues the guide, seemingly feigning a smile. It’s difficult having a helmet tightly fastened under your chin - and you may well need it.

The wind can blow at significant speeds in the narrow ravine, which in some places is no more than 10 metres wide, but several hundred metres deep.”

For some reason, the path was not maintained and, over time, became more dangerous. This didn’t prevent local people using it as a shortcut, including children on their way to school. But the reputation of the dangerous ravine began to spread amongst the rock climbing community.

If you ask around, you will quickly hear wild tales from the past. “When we were in our teens, we’d often go there to climb. That was in the 1990s; everything was in a very poor condition and you had to be extremely careful,” says Francis Jimenez from Malaga. “Just getting there was an adventure,” chips in his brother Luis, and continues: “The only way was to climb and then make your way through the train tunnels. We had to press ourselves against the wall when a train was coming on more than one occasion,” says Luis, who contends that the experience was worth the risk. “It was dangerous, but it’s an incredibly beautiful location and geologically very interesting.”

Around the same time as the Jimenez brothers were making their climbs, a number of notable accidents took place along the Caminito del Rey. The entrances were officially closed in 2000, and anyone found getting in risked being fined EUR 6000.

However, everyone recognised that the Caminito del Reywas a unique environment that had to be experienced. Therefore, it wasn’t long before plans to renovate the trail were put forward.

Nine million Euros and 500 tonnes of building material later, and the new Caminito del Reywas ready to receive visitors in 2015.
“It took a year to build the new trail, which proved to be a very complicated process. Of course, you can’t compare it with how it was a century ago as they didn’t have the same safety standards as we do now,” says the guide.

The result is impressive and, like all really good experiences, the Caminito del Reysaves the best till last. After a brief stretch inside the old canal, you come to a stop right in front of a solid wall of rock. The entire valley extends out behind you, the only way forward being to cross the suspended platforms that crawl along the rock face and into the next ravine. Those who think that the glass balcony that hoves into view is the high point of the trail are sadly mistaken, for immediately beyond is the Puente Colgantebridge. This 35 metre long suspension bridge crosses the ravine at a height of 105 metres, sways in the wind and affords unbeatable views of both the ravine and the valley.

It is an experience that will stay long in the memory, even after you have returned to beach life in Malaga.

Caminito del Rey

Location: Desfiladero de los Gaitanes, Andalusia, southern Spain.

Total length: 4.78 miles.

Degree of difficulty: Moderate to challenging.

Opening times: Open all year round, with varying opening times depending on the season. Visit the website for up-to-date information.

Tickets: Tickets are pre-booked online on the official website.

History: Built between 1901–1905, renovated and reopened in 2015.

MAY 2023

Malaga is one of the oldest cities in the world – and unusually well-preserved. As a result, there are many old cafés, traditional shops, and historic bars. Here are six timeless tips for the capital of the Costa del Sol.

Attracting tourists and malagueños alike

El Pimpi

History is literally in the walls of this 50+ year-old restaurant. They are covered with blue and white Andalusian tiles, old posters, and photographs of famous guests. Waiters dart among the tables with trays filled with tapas and wine. The historic atmosphere and well-prepared tapas dishes attract tourists and locals alike. The menu includes local specialties like ensalada malagueña (a rustic salad with salted and dried cod, orange, green olives, and potatoes), boquerones fritos, and salmorejo (Andalusian tomato soup). Save room for the signature dessert: orange sorbet with olive oil, sea salt, and almond crisp.

The restaurant is next to the Picasso Museum, one of the city’s most famous attractions.

Genuine and relaxed atmosphere

El Cabra

On Sundays, Malaga residents like to escape to Pedregalejo, a former fishing village half a mile east of the city. Although Pedregalejo has been gentrified in recent years, the atmosphere is still genuine and relaxed. Along the long beachfront promenade, you’ll find everything from modern health hippie hangouts to traditional chiringuitos – simple beach restaurants with plastic tables and freshly grilled sardines. One of the oldest and most famous is El Cabra, which opened in 1965 and offers a spotless seafood paella.

Traditional delicatessen

Juan Dios Barba

The city’s oldest food market, Mercado Central de Atarazanas, is a must for foodies. Around the city, there are also several so-called ultramarinos, traditional delicatessens that sell air-dried hams, wines, jams, almonds, cheeses, and other goodies over the counter. An excellent option is Juan Dios Barba, near the Mercado Central de Atarazanas. Here you’ll find a wide selection of local cheeses and bacalao, or salted and dried cod.

Oldest is best when it comes to ice cream

Casa Mira

There are plenty of ice cream parlors to choose from in Malaga, but the oldest is the best. Casa Mira opened in 1890 and is now located at several addresses in the city, including the shopping street Calle Marqués de Larios. The most stylish ice cream parlor is hidden on the smaller Calle Andrés Pérez – the beautifully restored interior is worth a visit in itself. The specialty is turrón, or soft almond nougat, which is sold as both ice cream and candy. A refreshing treat is ‘Blanco y negro’, coffee with vanilla or turrón ice cream.

Traditional tavern with a crowded bar

Mesón Mariano

Few traditional taverns in Malaga maintain such a high standard as Mesón Mariano. That’s also one of the reasons why the bar is often crowded with locals. If there’s a free spot, it’s wise to grab it, order a glass of Pedro Ximenez and a plate of fried eggplant with molasses, a plate of jamón, a malagueña salad, and at least one dish with artichokes. The latter is the restaurant’s specialty. Choose between, for example, confit artichokes, fried artichokes, or artichokes wrapped in Iberian ham.

Festive and authentic atmosphere

La Tranca

It’s hard to imagine a more authentic place to start the evening than La Tranca. If there is one, it would be Antigua Casa de Guardia, Malaga’s oldest bar. But La Tranca has a more festive atmosphere and better tapas (don’t miss their empanadas), and you often have to squeeze your way to the bar to order. The walls are covered with vinyl covers, vermouth is served straight from the barrel, and the bills are written with chalk directly on the bar, just like in the old days. And because it is often crowded, it’s easy to make new friends.

June 2022

If you thought Malaga was just the airport you land at on your way to sun-drenched beachfront towns like Marbella or Fuengirola, think again. The capital of the Costa del Sol has undergone a dramatic transformation in recent years. With its glitzy port area, an exciting variety of art and a burgeoning food scene, it’s time to consider Malaga a vacation destination in its own right.

Day one

Live your Andalusian dream

Palacio Solecio

Wake up in Palacio Solecio, a stunning boutique hotel set right in the heart of the historic old town, steps away from the Museo Picasso and the Roman Amphitheater. Built in the 18th century, the facade of this Andalusian palace was considered a masterpiece of architecture for its times. Fast forward to 2022, and it has been meticulously transformed into a modern boutique hotel that strikes the perfect balance between old and new. It is also home to one of Malaga’s gastronomic must-visits, Balausta, where chef José Carlos Garcia wows locals and visitors with his traditionally inspired, contemporary cuisine.

Get your pedal on

Recyclo Bike Café

Malaga’s first bike café, Recyclo Bike Café offers everything you need for a healthy morning in the capital of the Costa del Sol, from delicious artisanal coffee to tasty snacks and, of course, bike rentals. Bikes range from city bikes to hardtail and full suspension mountain bikes, available to rent by the hour. Before setting off to explore the city, enjoy a cup of locally roasted coffee (or a glass of craft beer, if that takes your fancy) with some nibbles made from fresh produce sourced directly from the nearby market. Better still, Recyclo offers plenty of vegan and vegetarian options.

Stock up on jamón

Mercado Central de Atarazanas

Just down the road from Recyclo Bike Café, Mercado Central de Atarazanas is not the most famous covered market in Malaga, but it might just be the most interesting. The market here dates back to the 14th century, although the construction of this particular building began in 1870. Apart from a fabulous selection of fresh produce, this is also a great spot to stock up on everything from acorn-fed jamón ibérico to jars of olives and salted anchovies. While you’re at it, stop at one of the food stalls for a lunch of grilled sardines or juicy pescaitos fritos (Andalusian-style small fried fish).

Soak up some street art

Calle Casas de Campos

Once one of Malaga’s most chic neighborhoods, the modern-day Soho might appear to be little more than a collection of derelict buildings – that is, until you look more closely. Thanks to an initiative known as MAUS (Malaga Arte Urbano Soho), this grungy-looking neighborhood has become the city’s center of street art. From Calle Casas de Campos with its mural of Charlie Chaplin and the giant rodents by Belgian artist ROA, to the lesser-known works in Calle Alameda Principal and Plaza de la Marina, it’s easy to while away an hour or two in fascinating, yet often overlooked, part of the city.

Dine with the glitterati

Only YOU Hotel Malaga

Since opening in 2021, Only YOU Hotel Malaga has become the place to see and be seen in Malaga. Besides the hotel itself, a beautifully designed 93-room, five-star boutique gem, the property also features two excellent restaurants and a rooftop terrace with an infinity pool, a well-stocked bar and views to die for. Start the evening off with dinner at the seventh-floor Lola Restaurant, which serves a Mediterranean menu of seasonal, locally sourced dishes, before moving over to the Lolita rooftop bar from where you can gawk at the panorama of the city over some killer cocktails.

Day two

Shop till you drop

Calle Marqués de Larios

If shopping is your poison, then Malaga has you covered, with its wide range of high-street and independent brands. Malaga’s main shopping district is centered around the pedestrianized Calle Marqués de Larios, where you will find most major brands including Mango, Massimo Dutti, Bimba and Lola and COS. Zara, a must-visit when in Spain, is in Calle Liborio Garcia, just off Calle Larios. For smaller boutiques, head to the top of Calle Larios, take a right at Plaza de la Constitucion, and then a left until you reach Calle Andrés Pérez, with its independent stores including the La Casa del Cardenal antiques shop.

Be a culture vulture

CAC Malaga

For art lovers, Malaga is a veritable treasure trove. Pablo Picasso was born here, and the museum dedicated to him, hidden down one of the prettiest streets in the old town, is one of the best. Then there’s the Carmen Thyssen Museum, with its impressive collection of 19th century Spanish art and the Centre Pompidou Malaga for modern and contemporary art. For something more off the beaten track, check out the CAC Malaga contemporary art center, which exhibits works by international and emerging Spanish artists – including Louise Bourgeois, Olafur Eliasson, Damien Hirst and Julian Opie – in a former market built in 1927.

Photo: Shutterstock

Refresh yourself with a side of history

Taberna Antigua Casa de Guardia

Founded in 1840, Taberna Antigua Casa de Guardia is officially the oldest bar in Malaga. Far from a historic gimmick, it continues to serve a superb selection of fresh tapas and Andalusian wine and sherry drawn directly from the wooden barrels that line the wall. Be aware, lunch here is not a buttoned-up, sitting-down kind of affair. These people do it the old way, so jostle your way to an empty space by the bar, order some freshly grilled seafood, Iberian ham and local sheep’s cheese and wash it all down with a glass of outrageously affordable wine.

Take a siesta on a beach

Playa de la Caleta

If all that food and wine has you feeling drowsy, it’s time to make like a Spaniard and go for a siesta – and where better to do so than on the beach? The city beaches may not be as lovely as the ones at Torremolinos or Puerto Banus, but they do the trick. Playa Malagueta is the closest to the city, but it gets quite crowded. Meanwhile, La Caleta is a 30-minute walk (or five-minute cab ride) away and well worth the effort. Just make sure you lather up with plenty of factor 50 if you feel the zzz’s coming on.

Gorge yourself on seafood

Marisqueria Noray II

Malaga is a seaside town so where better to sample the freshest, spiniest of creatures from the Mediterranean? Marisqueria Noray II may not look like much from the outside, but this unassuming bar on a particularly unappealing side street in Soho just happens to be one of the city’s top shellfish spots. Here, brothers Miguel and Paco Robles prepare the catch of the day, provided by fishermen from the bay of Malaga, for a discerning crowd of hungry seafood lovers. Don’t miss the razor clams, the grilled shrimp or the scallops – and whatever is on special.

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